File This Under Life Goes On

I apologize in advance to those of you who follow us on Facebook.  Some of this will be a repeat, but for those of you who don't....

On the day my mom died

Some of my mom's proudest moments, that she spoke of all her life, were guiding canoe trips as a young Girl Scout leader, leading young girls from what was then St. Rose Orphanage, on canoe trips. This was long before she got married and had a family of her own. Seems fitting that today all things came together for me to be in a canoe for the first time in 40+ years.

We're loving this campground on the Chassahowitzka River and after spending 2 days driving around looking at other nearby RV parks, we were lucky to snag a site for another 2 weeks.  So on Monday we'll move 20 yards to a different site, but basically we're staying put.  Best travel day ever!   This will be nice for Robin as I fly home from Tampa for my mom's funeral next week.  Since we're staying so long, we feel like we should go to the campground Superbowl party on Sunday.  This will be the first time we formally socialize at a RV park.  We're to bring a "covered dish to pass".  We're still debating what that will be.

Time to wrap up the Disney experience.  We agreed that some of the dazzle is off the castle.  Fewer of the cast members are outstanding.  The technology troubles with their new wristband system are frustrating.  One day, 2 of our 3 FastPass+ rides were inoperable when we got to them and contradictory instructions from cast members and long lines made the situation worse.  The restrooms are not necessarily spotless all the time.  Campground wireless requires getting on a waiting list to borrow a modem and coaxial cable from campground.  The truth is, all of our expectations for Disney are so high, impossibly high, that we may be doomed to disappointment.  What would be considered a really good experience at Great America is not good enough at Disney.  And it's really expensive, which makes the little issues rankle even more.

Nonetheless, it's still a lot of fun with experiences you can't have anywhere else and 97.325%  of the time it is as perfect as you expect.  Animal Kingdom was fantastic.  Epcot has great food, fireworks and charm.

Epcot ibis with Italy in the background

Epcot fireworks show

Magic Kingdom had most of our frustrations but then it's the most kid-focused and all the kids who weren't crying with exhaustion seemed perfectly happy.

Gourmet Magic Kingdom lunch-see I can do food photos too!

So yes, you should go to Disney World and take your kids of all ages.  You will have fun, you will have stories and you will spend a lot of money.  Don't worry about that, just lower your expectations a bit, go and enjoy.

Now we're back in the Nature Coast area of Florida and we're enjoying the wildlife and the setting.  Yesterday air temps were in the 40s and it was damp and rainy.  We went down to the dock to watch the mist rise from the 72 deg spring water and saw easily a dozen manatees in the water just off the dock staying warm.  It was amazing and so peaceful.  Bird life abounds and even the abundant vultures are fun to watch.  

Yes, there are manatees in the water

Red-bellied Woodpecker

So that's all for now.  We'll have a total of 3 weeks here before we leave.  Yippee for long stays!

More Manatees-We Hope

On Monday we left DisneyWorld after a nice, long 7 day visit.  We enjoyed the using the last days of our annual passes and finished with a day at Epcot where we soared over California, visited The Land (again-Robin's favorite along with Figment) and had a nice dinner in Morrocco.  Pastries from France came back to the rig with us for breakfast on travel day.

Yesterday we moved the 90 miles back to the Nature Coast area of Florida where we're parked at Chassahowitzka River Campground.  Yes, I spelled that right.  At first I was wondering what a good Polish-sounding name like Chassahowitzka was doing in this part of FL, then I was told it was an Indian word meaning "hanging pumpkins".  It's pronounced just like it's spelled.  We're here for a week and hope to see some manatees right at the boat launch here and maybe canoe in the river.  I haven't canoed since Girl Scout camp 40 years ago so stay tuned for that adventure.

On another note...while we're on the road, it's somewhat surreal in our home away from home.  We don't forget that lives are going on back in Kenosha, but we're a little detached despite ready communication via email and cell phone.  As a reminder of those on-going lives, my mother died today after a short stay in a Milwaukee hospice.  She was 88 years old and stable but frail when we left in December and her health deteriorated quickly over the last few weeks.  We had said our goodbyes when I left both knowing this could happen.  I'm very fortunate that my sister and her family took very good care of her while I was away and now I'll fly home for the funeral next week.  Mom loved having this blog read to her and hearing of our adventures.  I'm glad she got to participate in that way.

We'll keep you posted as life goes on here in Chuck.

Disney-Round 2

We’re just over half-way through our 2^nd (and last for now) stay at Walt Disney World’s Fort Wilderness.  We’ve eaten at all our favorite restaurants once so far and are planning return visits.  Jiko in the Animal Kingdom lodge has the most interesting flavors blending African, Indian and other exotics tastes.  California Grill at the top of the Contemporary Hotel has floor to ceiling windows for viewing the fireworks, fresh, seasonal dishes, a wine list we like and lots of glitz.  Flying Fish at the Boardwalk is probably our favorite with really good food, good wine list, semi-open kitchen so you can watch the action.  It's the most interesting to watch as cooks, servers, bartenders and hosts or hostesses weave seamlessly around each other providing an outstanding experience.  A well-oiled machine is the term that comes to mind.

Do we do anything besides eat at Disney?  Sure, sometimes.  Tuesday was the warmest day so far, in the low 70s, so we donned our swimming suits and headed for Typhoon Lagoon.  This water park has a long, lazy river for relaxed floating and a great water roller coaster called the Crusher Gusher.  We got two circuits around the lazy river and one run down the Crusher Gusher before the rain came and we came home wet and happy.  Then we went to eat…but you knew that.

Floating down that lazy river

Wednesday was probably the highlight for me so far.  We got up at the crack of dawn and went to the Animal Kingdom for a 3 hour behind the scenes (backstage in Disney-speak) tour of the animal areas.  It was another cool day which meant some of the animals were inside until it warmed up.  The elephants were all in their night barn and we watched as the trainers worked with the young baby elephant (2 yrs old, 2000 lbs) teaching him to present his ears and feet for examination and to lay down on command, all the while using clicker training and positive reinforcement (sweet potato chunks) to model the behavior.  Meanwhile the rest herd watched the training and us.  We met a young rhino who was getting introduced to the herd but in the meantime was very interested in, again, watching us .  The animal keepers were all passionate about their animals and conservation efforts that go along with Disney’s animal program.  We walked through the veterinary hospital and ended with a “skip the long line and get on your own personal vehicle” ride through the African attraction.   Very fun. 

Entering the African safari ride

Sable antelope

A muddle of hippos with vultures.  No, the hippos aren't dead, the vultures are just optimistic

Which way did he go?

No butts about it!  White rhinos, social animals

Addax antelope.  For more on this rare, desert dwelling critter, check out Addax info

Yesterday we ended up doing some repairs on rig stuff and shopped for cat food.  Given the sheer vastness of Disney World, all ordinary shopping takes a bit of hike to get to so 2 trips to the hardware store and a long ride to a pet supermarket ate up most of the day.  However, we still have 3 days so we’re planning the rest of the fun.  Stay tuned.

Last animal photo for now.  Florida native Roseate Spoonbill

Floating With The Manatees

I admit that I was skeptical about swimming with the manatees.  In a large part my attitude was colored by an unpleasant experience swimming with whale sharks in Mexico.  That experience was overrun with people thrashing around in the water without regard to the animals' welfare or others' experience.  Would the manatee experience be the same?  Other concerns were the 40 deg. F air temperatures and the fact that we'd have to wear wet suits.  I just couldn't imagine enjoying anything while stuffed into skin-tight neoprene.

However, the Navigator/Travel Maven/Salad Girl did extensive research and found an outfit that seemed to put the animals first and we booked our outing.  At 9:30 am we got to the dock dressed in swimming suits covered by sweatpants, thermal shirts, socks and jackets.  We were joined by 4 others similarly attired and sat down in the office for our orientation.  A government video showed all the things that would not be tolerated (chasing, harassing, poking, riding, removing babies from mothers for photos and all sorts of other unimaginable acts) that they had captured on video.  Next the captain's video explained proper behavior and the rationale.  We were not to wear fins because they stir up the sediment, disturb the manatees and most importantly, remove the advantage the manatees have of being able to swim more quickly to avoid us.  We were to swim with small strokes to keep the water as quiet as possible and when we sighted a manatee we were to stop 6-8 feet away and float quietly. Any talking should be in whispers.  Any direct contact was to be initiated ONLY by the manatee. Failure to follow the rules would result in removal from the water and if we violated the governments rules or crossed the rope into the sanctuary, fines start at $10,000.

Next up was the wet suit.  The woman running the show sized each of us up and unerringly gave each of us a wet suit that fit.  As she said, it should feel like a sausage casing.  My greatest fear now was that I'd be mistaken as one of the manatees.  Form-fitting black neoprene is NOT my best look.  Onto the boat, a spacious pontoon boat captained by an ex-Seattle Seahawk who was raised in the area and had a great eye for spotting and a great sense of humor.  We motored about 20 minutes and came to the manatee area.  There were 3 or 4 other boats there and probably about 20 people in the water...some thrashing around with fins and squealing and generally making me wonder if this was a good idea.  We slipped quietly into the 72 degree water and swam toward the spring and the area that was not roped off.  Beyond the ropes is a large area where the manatees can avoid people.

Soon they started appearing in the murky water....large, ghostly shapes under me, next to me around me.

 It was more than a little spooky.  I stopped to float quietly, face mask down and breathing through my snorkel when all of a sudden, coming from behind and below, a manatee swam directly beneath me from toe to head.  It was only about a foot under me and huge...7' long.  I gasped, startled, and then awed that a creature that size could share the water with me and neither of us have any fear.  Or at least the manatee didn't show any fear.  A few moments later another big manatee appeared right next to me and floated on the surface alongside me.

Following our previous instructions, I reached out with one open hand and gently rubbed his back.  Algae came off his thick skin and he stayed in place.  I moved my hand around and rubbed a little harder.  The current pushed me away a bit and he moved with me, allowing me to rub his back in ever bigger strokes.  Then he turned slowly and brought his bristly face within 6 inches of my mask.  We stared at each other for a bit, then he rolled and presented his belly which I also rubbed for a while.  Finally he slowly swam away.  Our captain had told us that some of these manatees were like black labs...seeking attention and petting and I guess that's who found me.  It was an amazing experience.

Aquatic black lab?

 I floated for a while longer and then another big one swam by.  As he passed me he rolled onto his side and, believe it or not, pooped right in front of me.  Yes, I finally understood why the water was so murky, it's full of manatee poop.

Finally, chilled and tired, we all gathered back on the boat to shed our wet suits and drink hot chocolate and tell manatee tales.  It was a fabulous day.

But, the manatees encounters weren't over for us.  A very special manatee gathering spot called Three Sisters Springs was going to be open to foot traffic this weekend, one of only 2 weekends this year.

Normally you have to kayak or snorkel in from a boat, but for two days we could walk or bike in and stroll the boardwalk surrounding the springs.  Early this morning we drove as close as we could and then biked the last mile or so to the springs.  There Fish and Wildlife Service personnel and volunteers from the refuge had set up educational exhibits and were walking the boardwalk to tell the story of this special place and the efforts to protect the manatees.  This past April, National Geographic Magazine did a story on this place and the manatees so you can read all about it at  this National Geographic Manatee article .

Manatee herd seen from the boardwalk at Three Sisters

I know I'm incredibly fortunate to be able to have these experiences.  Yet, I almost wish, for the animals' sake, that no one could ever do this.  Despite the majority of people doing it right, the small number of idiots disturbing the animals, disturbs me.  I wish they could all have pristine habitats and lives undisturbed by people.  Yet, manatee habitat in this part of Florida is in the middle of houses, marinas, parks and campgrounds.  Interaction is inevitable.

Another herd

Education is the best thing we can do to protect them and if swimming with them makes us appreciate them more and protect them more, than it's a good thing.  For me, having all these encounters has been a great thing.

Next up - a full week of camping with Micky back at Walt Disney World and then a week back in this area.  We hope to do more exploring and maybe some canoeing.  Yippee.

One last encounter

Nature's Coast, Florida

We left Disney World on Wednesday, 1/15 heading 90 miles to Crystal River on what the tourism board calls Nature's Coast of Florida.

Wild turkey escort out of WDW

It runs along the Gulf Shore north of Tampa and is, like Cedar Key, what we think of as more "old" Florida. After the glitz, glam and crowds of Orlando, these small towns, 2 lane highways and abundant nature harkens back to what Florida might have been 70 years ago.  Or at least that's our fantasy.  The area is rife with springs that bubble up from the largest aquifer in North America.  The springs feed streams and rivers that run into the Gulf.  The spring water is a constant 72 deg. F which feels pretty warm on these 40 deg. night and 60 deg. days.  The warm water, abundant vegetation makes it the perfect winter habitat for....yes, you guessed it....manatees.

Yes, this area of Florida has made its name on manatees and they so appear on all sorts of retro/tacky advertising.

Slightly bigger than life-sized roadside manatee

You can Google manatees to see their natural history and vital statistics and see lots of photos, but that won't really prepare you for seeing them in person.  We started at Homossasa Springs Wildlife State Park.  A former private zoo, it was turned over the State of Florida in the 1980s and the state maintains a native wildlife attraction and manages the ideal manatee habitat in cooperation with other protective agencies.  It's a wonderful place with a nice boat ride to the park entrance and then an easy walking trail to see the attractions.

Boat ride to the park

 We headed to the manatees first.

Slightly smaller than life-sized...the manatees that is

We rounded a bend in the trail and the navigator exclaimed, "Look at all those rocks in the river.  Wait a minute, those rocks are moving!"

Herd of manatees

Yes, there they were, the manatees!  The first of several groups we saw that day.  Each 6 or more feet long with a whiskery face and small gentle eyes and the most benign expression you can imagine.  Of course as a trained biologist, I refuse to anthropomorphize these critters, but they sure are cute.

They were close to the bank and abundant, floating and sleeping and rolling and doing adorable manatee things.  There is much written about the risks these gentle creatures face including habitat degradation and boats and debris in their waters but the population is relatively healthy now and many groups are working to protect them.  It was amazing to be so close and be able to just watch them.

After ogling the manatees for a while, we walked the rest of the trail and enjoyed seeing the other animals, especially the many birds which you usually don't see up close.

Great Blue Heron

Flamingos

Ibis flock flying off

No caption needed, right?

Barred Owls

It was a great day at the park, and a deal at only $13 each admission.  Our appetite for seeing manatees was whetted and we were determined to find more.  Luckily, it wasn't hard.

Manatee on the way out

Last manatee of the day.

Stay tuned...next up....swimming with the manatees!

Animal Kingdom - Not Animatronics

Written on Monday, 1/13/2013, posted 1/15 when we're back on WiFi

Yes, the giraffe was that close

 We left Cedar Key on Sunday heading 150 miles to Orlando and WDW – one of the happiest places on earth according to the marketing.  We got a good start with all systems working as designed as we pulled up jacks, pulled in slides and drove away.  We arrived at Ft. Wilderness and checked in at the campground and headed for our assigned site.  Unfortunately, it was too small for us, especially given the folks across the road who parked their van in such a way that we couldn’t get our angle to back in.  Back to the reception center for a new site, this time one of their biggest and assurances that we’d have no problem getting into it.  It is a huge site, but all the roads here are really narrow and we did some jockeying around to get the right angle.  Several men stood by offering advice and help and were sure they were better than the navigator at directing me.  She disabused them of that notion and last I saw their ears were charred bits on the sides of their heads.

We got in, set up and took our bikes down to the dock to take the boat over to the Contemporary Hotel and the California Grill for dinner.  We were last there last year on their last night open before closing for renovations.  The renovations turned out beautifully and the food and service are still outstanding.  We ate at the bar where the very knowledgeable bartender turned us onto some new wines.  A fun evening ended with fireworks watched from the dock at Ft. Wilderness.

Monday we got up before light to get to Animal Kingdom for “Special Magic Hour”.  If you’re staying on Disney property, you get an extra hour at the beginning or end of the day when the riffraff are not allowed in.  We knew from last year that the animals on the African safari ride were active early in the morning so by 8:30 am we had parked, hiked into the park and were aboard the ride through the African exhibit.  

I know that keeping animals in captivity is controversial, and in a perfect world, all the animals would have undisturbed habitat to live out their lives naturally.  But the reality is that many of the species at WDW are endangered in their home countries and Disney gets credit from me for housing them in good habitats with companions and, of equal importance, emphasizing the conservation message repeatedly and effectively.  When I consider the millions of people who hear that message every year, I think what is happening here is pretty OK.  And, it’s pretty fun!  So fun that we got off the safari ride and got right back on to ride again.  Thanks to “Special Magic Hour” there was absolutely no waiting.  So lots of photos to share from today.

In addition to the ride there is a walking trail with gorillas and meerkats and other fun things.   Then a train ride out to the “Conservation Station” where some vet work can be observed and some goats and sheep encountered.  Again, Disney took the idea of a petting zoo full of goats and removed the feed that created aggressive goats and whiny children and replaced with a big basket of brushes which kids can pick up to brush the animals.  Additionally the animals have areas that are off-limits to visits that they can easily escape to. 

More giraffes

See the cool stork?

It was a good giraffe morning

Elusive Okapi on the Pagani Trail

Boss gorilla

X-ray of an Emperor Tamarin (small Central American monkey)  being examined

Quarantine exam of an Emperor Tamarin underway

We rode the train back and strolled to the car and came back to Chuck for some rest.  It was warmer today, mid-70’s so that was enough to send me to the pool for a dip while the navigator and cats napped.

Next post - Epcot and on the move.

Finally Florida

Yippee.  We finally have Florida weather.  Warm (65 deg) and sunny yesterday.

Cats basking in the sun on Chuck's steps

We took advantage of the weather to tour around the town of Cedar Key.  It's a funky, old Florida gulf town of about 1000 full-time residents set amid bays and bayous of the Gulf of Mexico.  Unlike much of Florida, it's relatively low-glitz, low-rise and pretty calm.  It was once the home of  the Eagle Pencil Company, which took advantage of the many cedar trees to manufacture pencils.  Once the trees were depleted and a hurricane damaged the plant the pencil factory left and the town became a fishing village.  Now its major industry is clam farming.  As we drove around canals and bays appeared everywhere.

One of many canals

At least one well-known Wisconsin person spent some time here.  Although California tries to claim him, we all know John Muir started in Wisconsin and apparently walked 1000 miles to Cedar Key.  Interesting to see how connected we are.

Downtown Cedar Key is fun with artists' coops and this neat mosaic fishing sculpture.

We've found good food here too, with some inventive chefs doing interesting stuff with local ingredients.  This has been a really nice stop.

The day before our Cedar Key tour, we went into the nearest "big" town, Chiefland, FL where I got a belated Christmas present.

Nothing warms the cockles of my heart like a brand new sewer hose!

On the way home from Chiefland, we stopped at Manatee Springs State Park, where, alas, there were no manatees in the spring on that day.  Nor were there any of these visible...

and none of these

and very few of these disease carriers (yes, that's a mirror on the left).

There were lots of these...

Turkey vultures-I happen to like and respect these scavengers.

But the big thrill of the day was when Robin spotted this rare and elusive bird.

Pileated Woodpecker

That was really fun.  I've known since my biology-major days that they exist even in Wisconsin, but had never seen one.  This guy hung around and showed off for us for at least 5 minutes.  It was a thrill.

Tomorrow we move on to camp with Mickey at Walt Disney World.  I'm sure there will be stories from there.  In the meantime we're still on the lookout for manatees.  We'll keep you posted.